Walk through the Jewish Quarter, with its connected courtyards (Höfes), cross the Bösebrücke Bridge, across which East Germans were finally allowed to pass on 9 November 1989, take an underground bunker tour or visit Otto Weidt's museum and workshop for the blind. IN A NUTSHELL While home to some big guns – Brandenburg Gate, TV Tower, Checkpoint Charlie, Reichstag and Holocaust Memorial – it's Mitte's lesser-known places that leave their mark. With a name that translates to "Museum of Unheard of Things" how could you not step inside? This small museum houses such objects as petrified ice and the fur of a Japanese bonsai deer. HIDDEN PLACE Museum der Unerhorten Dinge. In the leafy square surrounding the St Matthias Kirche.įOOD + DRINK Trattoria Pizzeria Roma is Berlin's oldest pizzeria, serving fresh pasta and pizza to original recipes since 1965. MUST SEE Winterfeldt Markt (Saturdays and a smaller version on Wednesdays) is one of Berlin's oldest and biggest weekly farmers' markets. Schöneberg is also home to Berlin's gay scene, complete with a museum, Schwules, which documents LGBT culture from around the world. The park is so well loved that, when developers turned their eyes towards it, locals forced the city to conduct a referendum, which (for the meantime) saved the day. Larger (and delightfully tattier) than New York City's Central Park, it is used for festivals, music events and kiting. Today this abandoned airport has been reclaimed as a 386-hectare open space, with a six-kilometre cycling, skating and jogging track, barbecue area and community gardens. It's where Kennedy made his "Ich bin ein Berliner" speech, David Bowie recorded Heroes and the 1948 Berlin Airlift took off from Tempelhof Airport. IN A NUTSHELL Few things faze Schöneberg. In an old bunker, Ausland holds three shows each week. HIDDEN PLACE Ausland Berlin is a non-profit venue for music, film and performance offering international and local artists studio space and residencies. Repurposed exhibition spaces in Charlottenburg. MUST SEE Berlin's most popular Sunday flea market is at Mauerpark (meaning "wall park") a ratty stretch of green carved out of a section of the original "death strip".įOOD + DRINK Take the golden arches associated with one of the most recognisable fast food chains in the world, turn it upside down, and you have the trademark sign for W-Der Imbiss, a vegetarian-vegan/Indian-Mexican fusion of fabulousness. ![]() From Weinerei, a wine bar where you rent a wine glass for $3, sample as much as you fancy, then pay what you think you owe, to Kauf dich Glücklich, a fashion boutique selling outrageously good ice-cream, Prenzlauer Berg is as cool as it gets, in a chilled, authentic way. Today Prenzlauer Berg is one of Berlin's most desirable addresses, packed with boho cafes, indie fashion stores and retro boutiques. In 1989 Prenzlauer Berg was one of the centres for the peaceful revolution, attracting East German dissidents and sparking protests that would lead to the fall of the wall. ![]() IN A NUTSHELL The most populated borough, stretching from the northern edge of the city down to the central Prenzlauer Berg. While the emphasis is on nude portraiture and fashion, works also include landscape, architecture and still life. HIDDEN PLACE CAMERA WORK, named after the art magazine from 1903, on Kanstrabe is a contemporary gallery featuring artists such as Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Irving Penn and Diane Arbus. This legendary West Berlin pub on Savignyplatz has been serving traditional favourites (think potato soup with sausage, boulette with potato salad and roast sausage with sauerkraut) for almost 50 years. MUST SEE The Monkey Bar, a rooftop bar on the 10th floor of the funky 25hours Hotel Bikini, looks directly into the monkey enclosure of the Berlin Zoo. Fast-forward a quarter of a century and Charlottenburg is back in fashion, with the opening of the Bikini Berlin concept mall, Waldorf Astoria Hotel, highbrow boutiques and galleries and exhibition spaces. But then the wall came down and it was largely ignored as people fled to the exotic East. In its heyday it was the "beating heart of the West", a place to see and be seen. IN A NUTSHELL Best known for its magnificent 3.5-kilometre shopping boulevard, Kurfürstendamm, a kind of Champs-Elysees, without the attitude. By submitting your email you are agreeing to Nine Publishing's
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